MovieGuy's Mass Order F.A.Q.

Palmer FAQ

The following is a list of some frequently asked questions (FAQs) that include information on the following: Palmer Pursuit Shop (PPS) markers, what an MGMO is and how it works, and for the most party, a bunch of my opinions. This list was put together to help guide you (the consumer) when ordering a PPS marker. All of the material contained in the this FAW is property of my mind and was written for the express reason getting my opinion out there in order to cut down on the amount of emails I receive when doing a Movie Guy Mass Order (MGMO). PPS is in no way, shape or form responsible for any technical and/or pricing errors I may have made writing this up. In short, these are my opinions and therefore they are not legally binding.

This list of questions should be referred to before you consider placing an order with PPS. I have tired to compile a list of the most FAQs that I get via email. I will add more as the time goes on because I’m sure I’ve left something out. Again, 99.9% of this FAQ is my opinion, but I have also tried to remain unbiased at all times. ENJOY!

Please take the time to read all the way through this FAQ before you email me to ask a question. If you do email me with a question that is covered by the FAQ, you WILL be referred right back to it. Thank you for your co-operation. Also, in this FAQ any time I refer to a Typhoon or Typhoon class marker it can/will and does include any of the brass markers that PPS custom makes (ie - Typhoon, Pug, Houndstooth, Squall, Hurricane, Super Stocker and Paladin). Also included in these broad generalizations are the Nasty versions of these markers. Finally, all contents of the FAQ are in no particular order, and cover many different topics, if you’d like to see something added to the FAQ list, please email me with your questions at and please put in the title “MGMO FAQ.”

For ALL ordering information, please email me at and please label all correspondence with “MGMO Order.”


  • Can I get a Typhoon Anodized?
    • No. Brass can NOT be anodized, only certain types of aluminum can be anodized. You can have the aluminum parts on a Typhoon anodized (for an additional fee), those parts include: velocity adjustment cap, Stabilizer (if you get one w/your marker purchase), muzzle break (if you get one), and ASA. You can also get colored airlines to match! Check out the Palmer Owners’ Group (POG) for some great examples (

  • Can I get a Typhoon Powdercoated?
    • No. The reason you can not get a Typhoon powdercoated is because the process requires a “bake-on” period. The temperature required to bake on the powdercoating is so hot, that it melts the soldering that holds the marker together. It has been my experience that powdercoating is less durable then nickel plating anyways, so I always recommend nickel over powdercoating.

  • What grips come standard on PPS markers?
    • PMI Rubber grips now come standard on all PPS markers. Several guys have modified after-market grips (such as Smart Parts grips) to fit Palmer Markers.

  • On a Blazer what can be nickeled and what’s the price?
    • Price varies with how many pieces you want to get nickeled. However $25 will cover the cost of nickeling your barrel and for an additional $25 you can get nickeled accessories that include: p-block, bolt pin, vertical ASA, trigger shoe, ball detente, velocity cap and for a small additional fee you can get a Stabilizer (if you get one with your Blazer) and/or a bottomline duckbill nickeled as well.

  • What exactly does a sight hood look like?
    • For a good picture of a sight hood please refer to the POG Picture Gallery and look up Craig’s Toker. I highly recommend a sight hood for any PPS marker, especially since they only cost $20-25. You’ll be amazed at how simple the design is, yet it helps so much when you’re trying to make that tough shot.

  • What color anno can I get for my Blazer?
    • Any color you want! PPS requests that you include a color sample or photo of the color you desire when asking for special anodizing. Color samples can be picked up at ANY home improvement store that sells paint. Also, PPS usually has some various colors in stock (they sometimes add a few Blazer bodies in with Stabilizers and other pneumatics) to get matching anodizing. Call for availability. PPS is not responsible for the end result of anodizing, they can give pictures, detailed diagrams and the anodizers can still screw it up. Usually you’ll have one of two options - 1) PPS will refund your money or 2) they can send out another Blazer body to the anodizers and hope they can get this one right. Anodizing takes 10-12 weeks routinely.

  • Should I get a Pro-Touch Trigger Job on my Blazer/Typhoon?
    • There is no “right” answer, it’s all personal preference. I will say that both stock triggers are on the heavier side of the trigger spectrum. I personally have a strong trigger finger so for me it was not too difficult to rip off long strings of paint on a stock trigger. However, at the end of the day my finger did feel fatigued. In short, if you THINK you’ll need it, get it. If you are considering a Pro-Touch you may also want to consider getting a 45 grip frame. From what I have been told, the 45 frame significantly reduces trigger pull (so much so, that PPS does not offer the Pro-Touch on 45 frames).

  • If I do get a Pro-Touch, how can I have it setup?
    • Pretty much however you’d like it. The most popular way to have it setup is: lightened as much as possible and as short and smooth as possible with as little side to side play. Some people prefer short with a snappy return, others prefer it to be smooth all the way through (like butter). Your best bet when deciding on a Pro-Touch setup is to figure out what your needs/style of play are and then go from there. If you are uncertain about the necessity of getting trigger work done, and you don’t know if it will give you that much of a competitive edge, then do NOT get a Pro-Touch. “What’s the difference between a pregnant woman and a light bulb?” If you know the answer to that then you’ll understand that it’s better to go with a stock trigger and then figure out if you NEED a Pro-Touch then getting a Pro-Touch and not like it, or never knowing if you really needed it.

  • How long will it take my marker to get to me if I order through an MGMO?
    • Custom takes time. If you want a cookie-cutter/mass-produced gun, then why are you even looking at buying a PPS marker? PPS does their best to get markers to you as quickly as possible, but they also labor to produce quality markers that will last a lifetime! Here is a ROUGH time table to follow when considering ordering through an MGMO:
    • 8-10 weeks for a Non-anodized Blazer (stock Blazers are black)
    • 10-12 weeks for a Typhoon class marker
    • 12+ weeks for a Classic finish Typhoon class marker or an anodized Blazer
    • Also, allow 7-10 days for all markers to be shipped from PPS to me. Once they arrive in FL, please allow 24-48 hours for them to be shipped out to you. All markers are shipped FedEx, no exceptions! Prices will vary on shipping fee/charges as well.

  • What’s a muzzle break? What does it do and how much does it cost?
    • It’s an aluminum piece that is about 2-3” long that is attached on the front end a barrel (usually on a Typhoon class marker). The muzzle break does essentially the same thing as venting, in that it evenly disperses the gases around the ball as the ball leaves the barrel (in theory). It costs $15 and it looks pretty cool. It also helps prevent flaking on the tip of the barrel, a common problem that occurs due to day-to-day use of the marker (how many of you jam your barrel into a bunker as you come sliding into it, by mistake?).

  • What should I get, a Typhoon or a Blazer (advantages/disadvantages)?
    • This is a total preference based decision. Both have the same efficiency, effective range and effective accuracy. Most people choose one or the other based on three things: 1) Rate of Fire (ROF) 2) Cosmetics/Weight and/or 3) Price. The first issue (ROF) is often discussed and I have yet to see a considerable difference in the ROF between the two. The Blazer has a slight edge in that it’s stock trigger is much lighter then a stock Typhoon trigger. Edge - Blazer. Cosmetically speaking these two markers couldn’t be anymore different if they tried! While beauty does lie in the eye of the beholder, a Typhoon will typically be more appealing to the average player then a Blazer. However, with the Typhoon you are limited to shiny silver, subdued silver, or a mixture of both. With a Blazer, your color choices are limitless. However, I have never seen a Blazer that looks as sweet as a Classic Typhoon. As well, the weight difference between the two markers is incredibly different. The Blazer is incredibly light (due to its aluminum body) compared to it’s older brother the Typhoon (all brass body). So much so that at the end of the day your arms will feel a little fatigued with a Typhoon, while with a Blazer you’ll be ready to play again the next day! Edge - Cosmetics - Typhoon, Weight - Blazer. Lastly and more often then not the deciding factor is PRICE. stock Blazer is $400, and a stock Typhoon is $585. If you added a Stabilizer, nickeled accessories and barrel venting to a Blazer, you’d be almost right at that $585 mark for a bone-stock Typhoon! That alone is reason enough to purchase a Blazer. Edge - Blazer.

  • What does the MGMO discount apply to and how much is it?
    • Any NEW PPS (built from the ground up) marker and any accessory for said marker. There are two different price breaks for PPS markers. If we get 5-9 markers in an order, the discount will be 10% off of the total price (add up the cost of your marker + all accessories, subtract 10% and bam, there’s your price). 10+ markers in an order and everyone gets 15% off of their total order! And the sky is the limit! **There is a small additional fee for participating in the MGMO and shipping fees will be added to the total before you receive your marker.

  • What does PPS mean by “Classic” finish?
    • A classic finish is essentially an alternating pattern of polished and matte nickel plating. Patterns are usually (but not limited to): diamondback, tiger stripe and the ever popular splat marks. Custom patterns are available upon request and subject to feasibility. Please refer to the PPS website for more details.

  • I’m on a budget, so I want the best looking Blazer at the cheapest price, what do you recommend?
    • Depending on the budget and on what you like/dislike, you have several options. For the player on a serious budget, I recommend getting a stock black blazer with nickel accessories and a stabilizer. The nickel/black look is very classy and very traditional. Not only that, but it’s fairly inexpensive too! The Stabilizer is probably the #1 most recommended add-on for any PPS marker. I like them because they make co2 as stable and consistent as HPA, even in the helter skelter climate of FL. If you’ve got a few extra bucks, get the barrel vented, this will help quiet the gun down a bit and it is also suggested that you will get better efficiency with a ported barrel. If you want to trim a few bucks off in order to help pay for either a Stabilizer or barrel venting, is to get your barrel powdercoated black. While I don’t think powdercoating is as durable as nickel it’s better then leaving the barrel raw (plain brass). Powdercoating is $15 less then nickeling your barrel, so it can help the budget-minded player. Want a cooler look at a low cost? Add a barrel sleeve ($20-25 the last time I saw a price) or a Tippmann foregrip ($15, IIRC) to go over the barrel and BAM! You’ll have one sweet looking marker. The most important thing to remember about cosmetics and cosmetics purchasing is this: cosmetics are a personal preference, get what YOU want, not what someone else tells you looks really cool. 99% of all add-ons are permanent, so you better like it. Along those same lines cosmetics are MUCH cheaper to do the first time around, so if you know you want anodizing (for example), don’t wait to have it done at a later date. Also if you’re on a budget and you’re not able to get all the options you want, then my advice is to wait for the next MGMO. I WILL keep doing them until either Glenn cuts me off, or no one needs a Palmer anymore (and if you’ve already got one, don’t you need another?).

  • What’s the difference between a male Stabilizer and a female Stabilizer?
    • Let me start by saying that there are NO PERFORMANCE differences between the two (or any other version of the Stabilizer). The main difference between the two is location of the Stab. male stab screws into a vertical ASA, while a female stab is attached at the bottom of the gripframe/drop forward/UMB. Some people prefer a male stab b/c it doubles as a vertical foregrip, others believe that the hosing on the male stab gets in the way of their grip so they elect to go with a female stab and a contoured foregrip. Again it is all preference and what you feel more comfortable with. There is a slight price difference between the two, plus with the female you will need to purchase a UMB (w/a Typhoon class marker) and/or a mount block or mount ring (for either the Blazer or Typhoon class markers).

  • What does a UMB do and will I need one?
    • UMB (stands for Universal Mounting Bracket) is required to mount anything under the grip of ANY Typhoon Class Marker. When you purchase a complete male/female Stabilizer kit for the Typhoon class markers, the price includes a UMB.

  • Can I get venting on my Nasty Typhoon?
    • No. Glenn has told me on several occasions that vented barrels on a Nasty would do little more then make an already gas hungry gun, less efficient. Typically most players add dual muzzle breaks to their Nasties to get the desired effect. PPS has quality standards that they like to meet, so this decision is based on years of experience and Glenn’s decision. Deal with it.

  • Can I get a pump kit for my Blazer?
    • While PPS does make a pump kit for a Typhoon and/or Stroker, you can NOT get a pump kit for a Blazer from PPS. You can however get one from Punisher Custom.


Last Updated 11/08/01
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